Spring 2008


Who foots the bill?

Homebased workers in the leather footwear industry campaign for their rights.

Homebased workers in many countries are working on the production of leather footwear. They experience poor working conditions as companies look for ever-lower product prices. Workers talk about pains in their hands and backs from stitching heavy materials, working long hours, having no contract or access to social security.

Homebased worker stitching shoes in ChileA homebased worker in Bulgaria is paid on a piece rate for each pair of shoes that she completes. For a pair of shoes which retails at 100 Euros, she is usually paid half a Euro. More complicated models can mean her hourly rate drops. Homebased workers say that, in order to make a living, a family of four needs 200 Euros (or 400 pairs of shoes) per month and they would need to work for 66 hours per week to achieve this.

Homebased workers talk about the negative impact on their health of using toxic glues or stitching leather with thread of the same colour, which can damage their eyesight. Laura from Chile reported that "the glue was so strong it made my head ache… when it fell onto leather, it stripped it". When there are urgent deadlines workers will often work non-stop for days to meet them.

Working conditions are closely linked to decisions made further up supply chains that are becoming increasingly globalised and complex. Companies are engaged in a 'race to the bottom' to reduce costs, putting pressure on suppliers to provide goods at ever lower prices. Company purchasing practices, such as changing order specifications or quantities at the last minute, also have a negative impact on labour conditions. Suppliers often find that the only remaining cost that can be squeezed is labour.

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